The Carretera Austral, a highway through Chile’s wild and rugged Northern Patagonia, links isolated fishing villages that were once reached only by boat to the rest of the country. The 1200 km (745 mile) road is closed for much of the year due to snow and weather; therefore it can only be completely undertaken during the summer months.
History
Chile’s infamous President Pinochet wanted to link some of the rainy, isolated fishing villages, reachable only by boat, to the rest of the country, and for that reason alone he has remained popular in the region. Work began in 1976, and is still only partially paved, although work is ongoing in many areas.
Scenery
Northern Patagonia - one of the most isolated regions in the world because of the massive mountains, fjords, glaciers, and weather - is actually a lush, temperate rainforest. In the summer the snow melts and the region turns a bright green. Snow covered peaks are everywhere, often dripping with waterfalls. There are also emerald rivers, small unspoiled fishing villages, and breathtaking mountain lakes.
Adventure Activities along the Carretera Austral
Rafting/Kayaing - While it’s off the highway, the Futaleufu river is one of Northern Patagonia’s biggest attractions. This is the whitewater mecca for rafters and kayakers worldwide.
Fishing - Fly fishing for trout in the pristine mountain streams of Northern Patagonia is a popular activity among the world’s most hard core fishermen. There are several five star lodges visited by US presidents and celebrities.
Cycling/Biking - During the summer months, the highway is ridden in full by cyclists. One of South America’s great journeys.
Rock Climbing - Reserva Nacional Lago Rosselot and Lago Verde attract a number of international climbers every summer.
Stops on the Careterra Austral
Chaitén – Sometimes considered the northern start of the Carretera Austral, the small seaside village of Chaitén can be reached by ferry from Hornopirén and Chiloé. The town is blanketed in mist for much of the year. It sits on a small, rocky bay surrounded by evergreen forests. It’s a good access point for hiking in Parque Pumalín.
La Junta – The road between La Junta and Chaitén is known for the steep ascents and dramatic descents and is possibly the most tiring leg of the road for bikers. A large sign and plaque, erected in 2000, marks the Carretera Austral and gives thanks to Pinochet for linking the town to the rest of the country.
Puyuhuapi – This town near Parque Nacional Queulat is best known for the luxury hot springs resort the Termas de Puyuhuapi. The village itself was founded by Sudetan Germans after WWII and is comprised of aluminum clad houses designed in German and Chilote architecture.
Coyhaique – The Mountains disappear and give way to rolling plains, farmland, and sprawling ranches. A hot fly fishing destination and the largest city in Northern Patagonia, Coyhaique is a good place to break the journey, find a hotel, or dine at a good restaurant.
Villa O’Higgins – Car ferries are necessary to complete the last leg of the journey between Cochrane and Villa O’Higgins. Dense mountains and wilderness prevent the road from going any further, therefore if you are traveling south you must go through Argentina.
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