The cargo ferry is neither luxurious or elegant but the views of Tierra del Fuego`s rugged peaks and huge glaciers are breathtaking and the wildlife spotting superb.

Wrap up warm, pray for good weather and have the camera ready to take some amazing shots of this far flung part of the world where fierce west winds force native lenga trees on a permanent lean and the weather so changeable snow can occur at any time.

After leaving Puerto Williams, the southern most town in the world, the ferry makes it way up the Beagle Channel. After only 80kms it passes the Argentine city of Ushuaia, stunningly set at the foot of the Cordillera Darwin. In the Beagle Channel sea birds, including albatross can be seen and seals sightings are very common.

Soon after Ushuaia the ferry leaves the Beagle Channel and into Chile's Patagonian region and the beautiful fiords of the Magellan Strait. Land is always in view on both sides, barren, windswept and usually capped with snowy rugged peaks and often hanging glaciers.

If the weather is kind you will see many glaciers and they will keep appearing until the light fades and it's time to go indoors. Some are huge and extend to the sea, dropping chunks of ice which float off like tiny ice bergs. Penguins, dolphins and fur seals are easily spotted.

The second day starts with some dramatic mountain scenery but by mid morning the undulating hills are no match to the wonders of the previous day. However wildlife spotting is even better without these scenic distractions.

The ferry docks at Punta Arenas early evening.

The Journey

The Transbordadora Austral Broom cargo ferry travels weekly between the Chilean towns of Puerto Williams and Punta Arenas.The journey one way takes 34 hours and the best scenery is seen on the Puerto Williams to Punta Arenas leg as the trip from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams passes the best scenery at night.

Ferry Facilities

The ferry is primarily a cargo boat and passengers are secondary income. There are no indoor passenger viewing areas or outside seats to enjoy the views.

Sleeping arrangements are a choice between a reclining chair or a basic berth. Blankets are available. There is one bathroom each for men and women which is also used by the crew. There are no showers.

The Food

Breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and an evening meal is included in the price. The dining room is small and can only accommodate 8 people so dining is in shifts. It won't win any culinary awards however the food is plentiful. Lunch is the main meal of the day when a hearty soup and bread is served followed by rice or pasta with meat and a small dessert. Crew eat in the same dining room and the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly.

What to Wear

The wind can be strong and cold. Essential at any time of the year is warm clothes to survive out on deck for those views. Woollen hat, gloves, a few warm layers and a windbreaker jacket are a minimum. Scarf and thermals under trousers would be advisable.

When to GoFerry runs year round but services are more frequent in the summer months of December to March.

Reservations and Prices

A chair costs USD175 and a berth USD210 including food. For more information see Transbordadora Austral Broom's website.

How to Get to Puerto Williams

• From Ushuaia Argentina there are limited boat services which cost USD80 to USD100 for the short journey. A better option is the Ushuaia AeroClub which flies Monday, Wednesday and Friday for USD100 per passenger. The 20 minute flight is in a 4 seater piper. The tourist office can assist with reservations.
• From Punta Arenas there are regular flights with DAP Airlines.