The Island of Chiloé, Chile

The rainy, mystical island full of fairy tales and legends

© Nicholas Gill

Wood Shingled Church in Chiloe, Nicholas Gill

Chiloé in the South of Chile is one of the most unique regions with the most distinct and bazaar cultures in all of Latin America.

The mystical island of Chiloé, which hangs off of Chile’s lakes district at Puerto Montt is one of the most unique places in all of South America.

The residents of the island, called Chilotes, believe in a type of mythology that is interwoven with Christianity. Brujos, a kind of witch, are at the center of the tales that show how humans are lead away from a pure life. Goblins, trolls, ghost ships, gnomes, and other creatures are used to tell about the history of the island, creation, life on the sea, farming, and cheating husbands.

Chiloé was first inhabited by a series of indigenous tribes such as the Chonos who were pushed south by the Mapuche. The Spanish arrived in the 1560’s and remained even after the Mapuche took control of Chile south of the Biobio river. The island was the last Spanish holdout in South America and didn’t surrender despite repeated attacks until 1826.

Chiloé is actually a small archipelago, meaning it is a series of islands. The largest, the Isla Grande de Chiloé, is the main island and where the majority of the population can be found. The smaller and more traditional islands are rarely visited by tourists and include: Quinchao, Isla Caucahue, and Isla Lemuy.

The main island is made up of a patchwork of farms and tiny bays and coves. Small villages where farmers and fishermen come to sell their goods are quite common. The main towns include Castro, the cultural and tourism capital, Ancud, home of the islands largest fort and best museum, and Achao, a small traditional town where transport to some of the smaller islands can be arranged. The Parque Nacional de Chiloé covers much of the west side of the island. The 43,000 ha park is filled with evergreen forest and a rocky coast that is home to colonies of Humboldt penguins.

Palafito Houses: These houses built on stilts are the symbols of the island chain. They are national monuments and fill muddy bays around the island. The largest clusters can be found around Castro.

Wood Churches: Apart from the palafitos, these are the most interesting architectural structures in Chiloé. There are many small wooden churches, 16 of which have been named UNESCO world heritage sites. Many are covered in aluminum on the outside, but the insides are 100 percent wood. The most interesting are in Achao, Chonchi, Dalcahue, and Castro.

Chilote Cuisine: With the abundance of fresh seafood, it’s no wonder that the archipelago is home to many distinct recipes. The most famous dish is curanto, which combines various meats, seafood, and vegetables that are cooked in an earthern oven and often served at festivals. Other interesting foods are cazuelas, chapapeles, mussels, seaweed, and artisan cheeses.

Getting To Chiloé: To get to Chiloé there are several ways, all involving car ferries. The easiest is by Puerto Montt, from where it is a 20 minute ferry ride. You can come from ships from both Puerto Natales in Southern Patagonia or Chaitén in Northern Patagonia.


The copyright of the article The Island of Chiloé, Chile in Chile Travel is owned by Nicholas Gill. Permission to republish The Island of Chiloé, Chile must be granted by the author in writing.


Wood Shingled Church in Chiloe, Nicholas Gill
       


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